Be skeptical of social media and advertising
Look, I’m not immune to the luxury lotion bait that people with absurdly wet skin praise on TikTok. But I don’t want to waste my time and money.
Advertisements for anti-aging products often tout clinical research supporting the product, which may make you think it’s worth your money. However, there are very few strong, placebo-controlled, blinded, randomized trials in humans of commercially available products, much less trials that are not sponsored by brands that profit from commercially available products. Results are often based on subjective manifestations of improvement rather than microscopic measurements. Personally, I’d like to see both.
For example, products like alpha hydroxy acids and antioxidants like vitamin C may help with skin aging, but the data behind them isn’t as solid as retinoids or sunscreens.
Many of the trending moisturizing ingredients, such as ceramides and natural moisturizing factors, have more theoretical support than hard data. Hyaluronic acid, a powerful skin moisturizer, has been shown to improve skin elasticity and roughness in randomized, placebo-controlled trials, but those studies were sponsored by industry.
Please note that none of these products are fountains of youth. But if you set realistic goals, incorporating topical treatments and focusing on prevention can put you on the path to healthier, smoother skin.
What you need to know about retinoids
Retinoids, compounds derived from vitamin A, are well-studied to reverse some of the damage caused by UV rays, promote cell turnover, and stimulate collagen to smooth wrinkles and smooth out bumps. . They range from prescription-strength tretinoin to less-strength over-the-counter versions of retinal and retinol.
- All you need is a pea-sized amount.
- Many people find retinoids to be irritating to the skin, so apply them a few times a week at first and increase the frequency.
- It is very important to use sunscreen and moisturizer along with retinoids.
- Retinoids take several months to take effect, so set your expectations accordingly.
- Do not take retinoids if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
- Please check the product instructions to ensure proper application.
What you need to know about sunscreen
You’ve probably heard that you should apply plenty of sunscreen before going out, wear a wide-brimmed hat, and wear protective clothing.
Look for a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher and apply it every day, even if you plan on sitting at your computer for work.
“Remember that most sun damage is due to accidental exposure,” Charlene Lamb, an associate professor of dermatology at Penn State Health, said in an email interview. “So not when you’re going to the beach, but when you’re wandering out running errands, or even when you’re sitting inside because UVA rays can still pass through your windows.”
Here’s what else you need to know:
- Look for sunscreens with iron oxide, especially if you have dark skin. Lam recommends it to protect against visible light damage. We always talk about UV rays, but visible light from the sun, light bulbs, and electronic devices can damage your skin’s DNA through oxidative stress. People with darker skin are more likely to experience hyperpigmentation because of this.
- Higher price doesn’t necessarily mean better. “You’ll see patients buy very expensive sunscreens and only use one drop of it, and that’s counterproductive,” says Lam. The general guideline is to use about half a teaspoon on your face and neck.
- Don’t forget to apply sunscreen to your chest and hands as well.
- Feeling overwhelmed yet? Try a moisturizer with built-in SPF to save yourself the hassle.
Skin care tips for all ages
- Despite advice from TikTok gurus, there’s no need to exfoliate. It’s what your body does naturally. If your skin is dry and flaky, focus on moisturizing instead.
- If you haven’t developed a good exercise routine yet, this is the sign to start lifting weights. A study of sedentary middle-aged Japanese women found that just 16 weeks of regular exercise improved facial skin elasticity and strengthened the extracellular matrix. Weightlifting in particular strengthened the dermal layer of the skin.
- Avoid smoking. Smokers exhibit characteristic changes associated with accelerated skin aging, such as lower eyelid sagging and upper lip wrinkles, which can be caused by decreased skin elasticity. Epidemiological studies have also shown that air pollution is associated with premature skin aging.
- Sunglasses aren’t just for your eyes. To protect the delicate skin around your eyes that is prone to wrinkles, you should wear a pair that protects from UVA and UVB.
- Mature skin tends to be drier (the production of sebaceous glands decreases with age), so a rich moisturizer can help.
What we want patients to know
When we’re talking about skin aging and sun damage, the most concerning possibility you want to intervene early on is cancer. Watch for changing spots on your skin, new moles, or rashes that are red, tender, or slow to heal. If you notice any changes, see your doctor.